Propylene Glycol in Cosmetics: Friend or Foe?

In the world of cosmetics many people scrutinize the ingredients in their favourite skincare products. Propylene glycol (PG) is one such commonly discussed ingredient, eliciting mixed opinions, especially within natural cosmetics. This article takes a closer look at what propylene glycol is, its functions and whether it can align with natural cosmetic principles.

What is Propylene Glycol?

Propylene glycol (PG) is a synthetic organic compound from the alcohol family. Widely used in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and the food industry, PG is a clear, colourless liquid with a nearly imperceptible odour, often used as a humectant, solvent, and preservative. Its primary role in cosmetics is to hydrate the skin by attracting and binding water from the environment, making it a popular moisturising ingredient.

PG is often derived from petroleum, which is why many natural cosmetic brands avoid it. However, plant-based alternatives are available, better aligning with the principles of natural cosmetics. This plant-based alternative, among others obtained from corn kernels, is increasingly appearing in natural cosmetics that rely on modern environmentally friendly solutions.

Functions of Propylene Glycol in cosmetics

• Humectant: Propylene glycol effectively hydrates the skin, drawing moisture from the environment.
• Solvent: It facilitates the blending of ingredients, enhancing the consistency of cosmetic products.
• Penetration enhancer: It aids active ingredients in penetrating deeper layers of the skin, boosting their effectiveness.
• Preservative: It inhibits bacteria and mould growth in cosmetics, extending their shelf life.

Safety of Propylene Glycol

The FDA (Food and Drug Administration) and CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) both consider propylene glycol safe for use in cosmetics at standard concentrations. Studies indicate that PG is generally well-tolerated when used in appropriate amounts. However, people with especially sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. As a result, many natural cosmetic brands opt for alternatives, particularly when aiming to minimise the risk of skin irritation.

Propylene Glycol in natural cosmetics – Is there a place for this ingredient?

The term “natural cosmetics” is sometimes defined differently, both by brands and consumers. For some, it means using only plant-based or mineral ingredients, while others allow safe synthetic ingredients that enhance product effectiveness. Though synthetic, propylene glycol often appears in cosmetics that seek to balance nature and modern technology, especially if it is derived from renewable sources, such as corn.

Natural alternatives to Propylene Glycol

For consumers seeking 100% natural products, several alternatives to propylene glycol offer similar properties:

• Plant glycerin: Sourced from plant oils, vegetable glycerin is an excellent humectant that retains skin moisture.
• Aloe vera juice: Known for its soothing properties, aloe also acts as a humectant, hydrating the skin naturally.
• Butylene Glycol: Though also synthetic, it is considered less irritating than propylene glycol and is widely used in products for sensitive skin.
• Pentylene Glycol: A synthetic or plant-derived ingredient, it moisturizes and has antimicrobial properties.

Why do brands use Propylene Glycol?

Despite available alternatives, propylene glycol remains common in cosmetics because:

• Effectiveness: It works effectively as a humectant and improves the consistency of cosmetics, allowing for formulations with enhanced moisturising properties.
• Safety: It is deemed a safe ingredient, with allergic reactions less frequent than with some natural substances.
• Affordability: It enables the creation of more accessible products, as synthetic ingredients are often less costly to produce than certain natural alternatives.
• Extended shelf life: It prolongs the shelf life of cosmetics, which is essential for natural products that may spoil faster without proper preservatives.

Summary

Propylene glycol serves essential functions in many cosmetic products due to its moisturising, solvent, and preservative properties. Although it is a synthetic ingredient, its safety has been confirmed by research and regulation, making it a popular choice in the cosmetics industry. However, for individuals seeking 100% natural products, equally effective alternatives are available that align better with the ideals of eco-friendly and organic skincare.

If you prefer natural cosmetics, pay attention to product labels and select those that align best with your ingredient preferences. The final choice depends on your priorities, but it’s essential to be aware of what we apply to our skin. 

However, remember that every ingredient - whether synthetic or natural - can trigger an allergic reaction, so it’s always wise to test new products on a small area before full use.