The use of plant-based dyes for natural hair colouring has completely revolutionised the world of hair care enthusiasts. Although dyeing hair with herbs has been known since ancient times, we are now rediscovering their power. It is a method for achieving beautiful colour as well as hair care, because nothing conditions the hair as well as hennaing, cassia treatments and indigo colouring.
1. What are colour-depositing herbs?
- Henna (it is best to look for BAQ-quality henna) – produces a reddish-orange dye, and its shade depends on the conditions in which it was grown and when it was harvested. Henna prefers a slightly acidic environment, and the dye begins to weaken after around 20 hours. There is no such thing as colourless, brown or black henna.
- Indigo – a dark blue-black dyeing herb that develops colour within 3–4 hours and prefers an alkaline environment. When combined with henna, it produces brown tones. To apply indigo on very light hair, a henna base is required to achieve a brown result. Skipping henna may result in green tones. The same applies when lightening treated hair – indigo may turn green when bleached.
It is often referred to as black or brown henna, but it is a different plant entirely.
- Cassia – a herb producing a golden tone, ideal for blondes and beginners. Cassia prefers an acidic environment. On very dark hair, it mainly provides a conditioning effect.
2. Who are herbal dyes suitable for – and who are they not for?
Colouring herbs are suitable for those who are decisive, prefer not to experiment with chemical dyes, and want to improve the condition of their hair.
3. Herbal additives:
- for deepening or cooling tones in henna and cassia:
* hibiscus (acidic)
* oak bark infusion
* cinnamon
* amla
* brahmi
* katha (slightly darkens and strongly conditions)
- for red tones:
* rubia – can be used alone, but it is runny and difficult to apply
* red pepper powder, beetroot powder, hibiscus flower powder
* hibiscus infusion, black mallow, butterfly pea flower infusion
* beet juice, grape juice, pomegranate juice
* kamala, sandalwood
* logwood (for purple tones)
- for reddish tones:
It is best to combine cassia with henna and additives that slow down oxidation, such as acerola powder or sea buckthorn juice. You can also add turmeric, lime blossom infusion or chamomile for lighter tones, or rubia for stronger, more vivid, fruitier shades.
4. What should every herbal hair enthusiast have?
- distilled water (essential for dyeing)
- a plastic bowl or container with a lid to prevent drying out
- a shower cap/bag/foil to cover hair and prevent drying
- an old hat – warmth improves results
- a dark or old towel – dye may stain fabric
5. How to work with colouring herbs?
- always mix with distilled water (pure H₂O without minerals, which may reduce effectiveness)
- henna and cassia should be left to release dye for several hours; indigo should not be left to stand
- keep paste covered to prevent drying
- warmth speeds up dye release and absorption
- additives allow control over final colour tone
- darker tones require multiple applications and long processing time (6–10 hours)
- herbs can be combined with conditioning plants such as:
* conditioning herbs: neem, tulsi, sidr, brahmi, bhringraj, shikakai, kapoor sugandhi, kapoor kachri, katha, fenugreek
* moisturising herbs: sidr, fenugreek, flax gel cooked in distilled water
6. Proportions and first paste
When preparing your first paste, focus on the dyeing herb only. Avoid additives. Build a base colour first, especially if your hair has been chemically dyed.
In later mixes, additives should not exceed 20–30% of the paste. The majority should always be the dyeing herb.
7. How much additive to use?
Use acidic or colour-adjusting additives in small amounts (e.g. two types in powder or liquid form). The final result always depends on your preference and experimentation.
