Every one of us wants our hair to be in the best possible condition, and we spend a lot of time taking care of it. Despite this, it does not always look the way we expect. Have you ever wondered which ingredients your hair might be lacking? Perhaps it is frizzy and you do not know how to manage it? Or maybe it is flat and lacking volume? Or has it lost its shine?
If you understand the principles of hair care, your hair will be in much better condition. Read on to the end and see how simple it can be.
PEH balance
You have probably thought more than once that your hair has become used to a particular conditioner, or that a product has changed and no longer works as it used to. This is because hair needs different groups of ingredients to remain in good condition. These are proteins, emollients and humectants. If you only provide one group and neglect the others, the condition of your hair will worsen due to deficiencies. For hair to look its best, a balance between these three groups must be maintained. However, every hair type has a different PEH balance. If you want to determine what works best for your hair, you need to observe it and adapt products to its individual needs.
At the beginning, you can note down what you used for each wash and how your hair looked afterwards. You will notice when it looks best, what works well, and what frequency is ideal. Over time, you will no longer need notes, as you will understand your hair’s needs perfectly.
Proteins
These are proteins, the building blocks of hair. They act like “cement” that fills in gaps in the hair structure. They make hair stronger and smoother. However, you must be careful, as not all hair types like proteins. Therefore, do not use them every wash, but every 3–5 washes, depending on your hair’s needs. Damaged, coloured, curly and high-porosity hair benefit the most from proteins.
How to use proteins? It is best to use them when the previous wash involved hydration or oiling over a moisturising base. After rinsing out a protein mask or conditioner, it is always good to apply emollients to seal the routine.
Examples of proteins: hydrolysed wheat protein, hydrolysed soy protein, hydrolysed silk, keratin, hydrolysed keratin, L-cysteine, arginine.
Emollients
These are ingredients that create a “shield” on the surface of the hair, protecting it from external factors and moisture loss. They lubricate the hair and add shine, making it smooth. They are the foundation of PEH balance and should ideally be used at every wash to seal the routine. All hair types need them, although in the case of low-porosity hair, care should be taken not to overload it.
How to use emollients? Ideally at every wash as the final step of your routine. In the OMO washing method, emollients should always be the second “O”.
Examples of emollients: oils, butters, waxes, lanolin, cetyl alcohol.
Humectants
Humectants absorb and bind water molecules, therefore hydrating the hair. UV radiation and high temperatures cause moisture in the hair to evaporate, making it look worse over time. That is why humectants are needed, but they should always be sealed with emollients to retain moisture. Low-porosity hair benefits the most, while other hair types should use them every 3–4 washes depending on needs.
How to use humectants? Not necessarily every wash, and depending on the weather. On rainy days, it is better to avoid them and use emollients instead, otherwise hair may become frizzy. Always seal humectants with emollients. You can also use them as a base for oiling (oil applied over humectants).
Examples of humectants: panthenol, hyaluronic acid, lactic acid, urea, sorbitol, glycerine, aloe vera.
Combining PEH in one product
You can also find products that contain all three groups of ingredients. However, this does not mean that each group is present in equal amounts. It is worth trying them and observing how your hair reacts and how often you should use them.
How to deal with issues such as frizz?
Why is it worth introducing PEH-based hair care?
Introducing PEH-balanced hair care will help you learn how to look after your hair from scratch and understand when it looks its best. It improves both condition and appearance, and it is not as complicated as it may seem. All it takes is understanding the basics and adapting them to your own hair.
